Traditional Textiles Used in Puṣṭimārg's Kṛṣṇa-Sevā

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Introduction

In the Puṣṭimārga tradition, sevā is not merely a ritual practice but an intimate expression of devotion, care, and aesthetic refinement offered to Śrī Ṭhākurajī. Among the many elements that enrich this divine service, vastra (cloth and textiles) hold a place of special significance. Each type of fabric—its texture, weight, weave, and origin—is thoughtfully chosen according to the season, the time of day, and the specific requirements of the deity's svarūpa.


From the delicate softness of muslin to the rich weaves of Banarasi textiles, these fabrics are not only artistic creations but also embodiments of India's ancient textile heritage. Many of them, especially from regions like Bengal (Dhaka) and Varanasi, have historically been renowned for their craftsmanship and continue to be used in Puṣṭimārga sevā to maintain the traditional and devotional standards set by the Ācāryas.


This article presents a detailed explanation of various traditional vastras used in Puṣṭimārga, along with their characteristics, origins, and their specific use in sevā. It is intended to help readers gain a deeper understanding of the thoughtful, devotional science behind these sacred textiles.

Types of Fabrics/Textiles

1. Malmal (Muslin) Fabric

मलमल वस्त्र

Fabric Description:

  • Extremely soft and fine cotton fabric (extremely soft cloth).
  • The pride of Indian textile art — particularly associated with the famous weaving of Bengal (Dhaka) and Vārāṇasī.

Usage in Sevā:

  • During rainy season (varṣā-kāla), summer-winter transition period (grīṣma-śīta sandhi kāla), in the days of hot season (uṣṇa-kāla).
  • For pāgha (turban) strip, kūlhe, garments (vastra), decorations (sāja), ṭhāḍā vastra (standing cloth), oḍhaṇī (shawl), śayyājī (bedding), mukha-vastra (face towel), aṅga-vastra (towel).

2. Jāmdānī (Bhāntvār) Fabric

जामदानी (भांतवार) वस्त्र

Fabric Description:

  • Fine cotton fabric woven with fine cotton threads in which extra weft is added during weaving itself to create flowers-leaves, vines, or geometric patterns.
  • This fabric is the identity of Dhaka.
  • Each flower, vine, or buṭṭā (motif) is woven separately by hand.
  • Ideal for summer wear due to its transparency and lightness.
  • The word "Jāmdānī" is Persian (Jām = flowers, Dānī = container).

Usage in Sevā:

  • Pavitrā Ekādaśī garments
  • Summer season (uṣṇa-kāla) garments
  • White ṭhāḍā vastra

3. Laṭṭhā Fabric

लठ्ठा वस्त्र

Fabric Description:

  • Smooth weave texture, high thread density, crisp, clean shiny surface
  • The word "Laṭṭhā" comes from Hindi "laṭh" (strong, solid)
  • Meaning: "strong, dense and durable cloth"
  • Fine Plain Cotton Fabric or Mercerized Poplin-like Cotton

Usage in Sevā:

  • Cap (ṭopī) in Bāl-līlā
  • Garments during summer-winter transition period (uṣṇa-śīta sandhi kāla) (when cold predominates).
  • White gādī (cushion) and pillow (takiyā) covers.
  • Garments, decorations etc. on during 41 days of Holī festival (khel ke dinõ mẽ).

4. Ḍoriyā Fabric

केसरी डोरिया वस्त्र
सफ़ेद डोरिया वस्त्र

Fabric Description:

  • Striped muslin fabric
  • 6-striped variety (6 dhārī-vālā), 4-striped variety (4 dhārī-vālā)
  • Cotton
  • Striped fabric (dhārīdār kapaḍā)
  • The word "Ḍoriyā" is derived from Sanskrit/Hindi word "ḍorī" (thread, string, or stripe)
  • Ḍoriyā vastra = such fabric which has pattern of lines (stripes)
  • In English it is often called "striped cotton" or "Doria weave fabric"

Usage in Sevā:

  • Janmāṣṭamī: Saffron garments (kesarī vastra)
  • Holī: White garments (safed vastra)
  • On other festivals (utsava)

5. Cundaḍī Fabric

Types:

a. Caufūlī Cundaḍī

b. Ek-Ḍārī Cundaḍī

एक-डारी चुंदड़ी
चौफुली चुंदड़ी

Fabric Description:

  • Bāndheja (tie-and-dye) fabric
  • Muslin caufūlī, ek-ḍārī
  • The word "Cundaḍī" is derived from Sanskrit word "cūḍa" (round shape), which indicates dots or round designs.
  • Traditionally it was worn as oḍhanī/dupaṭṭā.

Usage in Sevā:

  • Gaṇagaura vastra sāja (decorations)
  • Ṭhakurāṇī Tīja vastra and sāja (decorations)
  • Hiṇḍolā
  • On other days when Svāminījī's prominence festivals occur.
  • Rainy season (varṣā-kāla), garments (vastra) and decorations (sāja)
  • In summer-winter transition period (grīṣma-śīta sandhi kāla)

6. Vasantī (Spring) Fabric

वसन्ती वस्त्र

Fabric Description:

  • The variety, cheerfulness, and brightness of colors express the spirit of spring season (vasanta ṛtu).
  • Natural colors (prākṛtika raṅg) or vegetable dyes are applied by the method of spraying/splashing (chīṇṭane) or block printing (chāpane) after dissolving in water.
  • This splash of colors (raṅgõ kī chīṇṭa) appears like spring flowers (vasanta ke phūlõ).
  • Colors are dried and stabilized in sunlight (dhūpa).

Usage in Sevā:

  • Splash of colors (raṅgõ kī chīṇṭa) on muslin base (ādhāra).
  • From Śrīnāthajī's Pāṭotsava to one day before Kuñja Ekādaśī - garments (vastra).

7. Chīṇṭa Fabric

छींट वस्त्र A (Peacock print)
छींट वस्त्र B
छींट वस्त्र C
छींट वस्त्र D

Fabric Description:

  • Printing (chapaī) on cotton or muslin creates floral, leaf, vine patterns etc.
  • It was called "Chīṇṭa Paṭa" or "printed fabric".
  • Flowers (puṣpa), leaves (pattī), vines (bela) or patterns (ākṛtiyā) are engraved (ukerī)

Usage in Sevā:

  • Peacock print pichhavāī in Rathayātrā.
  • Vyāsa Pūrṇimā: Green print pichhavāī.
  • Garments and pichhavāī in Bhogī-Saṅkrānti.

8. Chāpā (Basmā) Fabric

छापा (बसमा) वस्त्र A
छापा (बसमा) वस्त्र B

Fabric Description:

  • Printing (chāpā) on muslin fabric (malmal vastra).
  • Design and colors stamped (chāpa) on cloth through hand-carved wooden blocks.

Usage in Sevā:

  • Navarātri garments (vastra) and decorations (sāja)
  • Saṃvatsara garments (vastra) and decorations (sāja)
  • In summer-winter transition period (grīṣma-śīta sandhi kāla)

9. Laheriyā Fabric

लहेरिया वस्त्र
सतरङ्गी (धनक) लहेरिया  वस्त्र

Fabric Description:

  • Wave-like stripes (laharõ jaisī dhāriyāṃ) through dyeing (raṅgāī) on cotton, muslin.
  • This fabric is called "Laheriyā" due to the wavy diagonal wave patterns (lahradār dhāriyāṃ) formed on its surface.
  • In Rajasthani sarees, dupattas (dupaṭṭe), turbans (pagaḍiyā), kurtas (kurte), and scarves.

Usage in Sevā:

  • Pavitrā Ekādaśī garments (vastra)
  • Rainy season (varṣā-kāla) garments (vastra) and decorations (sāja)
  • Hiṇḍolā

10. Laheriyā Chāpā

लहेरिया छापा

Fabric Description:

  • Wave-like stripes (laharõ jaisī dhāriyāṃ) through dyeing (raṅgāī) on cotton, muslin with printing (chāpā) on top.

Usage in Sevā:

  • Rainy season (varṣā-kāla) garments (vastra)

11. Tās Fabric

तास वस्त्र A
तास वस्त्र B
तास वस्त्र C

Fabric Description:

  • Muslin fabric with gold thread work
  • Zari threads were woven into muslin thread to create designs.

Usage in Sevā:

  • Cap (ṭopī) in Bāl-līlā
  • Garments (vastra) in summer-winter transition period (uṣṇa-śīta sandhi kāla) (when cold predominates)

12. Kārcobhī (Mukaiśa) Fabric

कारचोबी (मुकैश) वस्त्र A
कारचोबी (मुकैश) वस्त्र B
कारचोबी (मुकैश) वस्त्र C

Fabric Description:

  • Work on muslin fabric (malmal vastra)
  • Needle-thread and zari embroidery (kaḍhāī).
  • The word "Karcoba" is of Persian origin — formed from "Kār" (work) + "Cauba" (wood), meaning "Craftsmanship work done on wood".

Usage in Sevā:

  • Daśerā: White kārcobhī garments (vastra) and decorations (sāja)
  • Rathayātrā: White kārcobhī garments (vastra)
  • In transition season (sandhi-kāla ṛtu) (when cold predominates)

13. Dariyāī Fabric

दरीयाइ वस्त्र

Fabric Description:

  • An extremely beautiful and royal type of patterned cloth woven in silk (reśama) which is known for its wave-like (lahradār) design and water-like shine.
  • "Dariyāī" means "related to sea" or "wave-like".
  • This name is also often known as "Dariyā weaving" (dariyā bunāī).

Usage in Sevā:

  • Janmāṣṭamī Pañcāmṛta: Red-dariyāī dhoti upāraṇa, yellow garments (pītāmbara) in festivals (utsava).
  • In winter season (śīta-kāla) - garments (vastra).
  • In winter season (śīta-kāla) ghaṭā - garments (vastra) and pichhavāī.
  • From Vasanta to Śrīnāthajī's Pāṭotsava - garments (vastra) (if not hot climate).

14. Aṭalasa Fabric

अतलस वस्त्र A
अतलस वस्त्र B
अतलस वस्त्र C

Fabric Description:

  • Dariyāī silk fabric (reśamī vastra) with printing (chāpā) on top.
  • Persian/Arabic (Atlas) means — very smooth or shiny cloth.

Usage in Sevā:

  • Suthana (pants) in Janmāṣṭamī and major festivals (baḍe utsava) (Rādhāṣṭamī, Daśerā, Dāna, Śārada, Rathayātrā)
  • Garments (vastra) in Bhāīdūja, Gopāṣṭamī, Prabodhhinī and other winter (śīta-kāla) festivals (utsava)

15. Lappā Zarī Fabric

लप्पा जरी वस्त्र

Fabric Description:

  • Plain zari fabric without motifs(buṭe).
  • Uniform zari weaving across entire surface, without any buṭṭā (motif).
  • This is plain zari weave — whose shine (camaka) and luster (ābhā) are produced only from the weaving of zari threads, not from design.

Usage in Sevā:

  • Garments (vastra) and decorations (sāja) from Daśerā or Śārada to winter season (śīta-kāla).
  • Dvitīyā Pāṭa and for 9 days (9 dina) (if not hot climate).
  • Cīrā pāgha, zarī kūlhe, garments (vastra) on the days of Diwali.

16. Kiṃkhāba (Kinkhāba)

किनखाब A
किनखाब B

Fabric Description:

  • Royal, heavy, and luxurious silk brocade
  • Kiṃkhāba = Royal, heavy, and luxurious silk brocade
    • Base/warp (ādhāra): pure silk (śuddha reśama).
    • Weft (bānā): zari threads (gold/silver metallic threads).
    • Weaving (bunāī) - Brocade weaving technique.
  • Persian kam-khwāb/kim-khwāb = matchless (lājawāba)

Usage in Sevā:

  • Garments (vastra) and pichhavāī in winter (śīta-kāla) festivals (utsava).

17. Kiṃkhāba - Sikkā-Buṭṭī

किनखाब - सिक्का-बुट्टी

Fabric Description:

  • Kiṃkhāba silk fabric (reśamī vastra) in which coin-like round motifs(buṭṭe) are woven with zari.
  • Kiṃkhāba = Royal, heavy, and luxurious silk brocade
    • Base/warp (ādhāra): pure silk (śuddha reśama).
    • Weft (bānā): zari threads (gold/silver metallic threads).
    • Weaving (bunāī) - Brocade weaving technique.
  • Sikkā buṭṭī - This is a royal brocade fabric type of Banarasi (Vārāṇasī) tradition, which is famous for its zari weaving (zarī bunāī), coin-like motifs(buṭṭe), and heavy kiṃkhāba structure.
  • Persian kam-khwāb/kim-khwāb = matchless (lājawāba)

Usage in Sevā:

  • Garments (vastra) and pichhavāī in winter (śīta-kāla) festivals (utsava).

18. Kiṃkhāba - Hukama-Buṭṭā

किनखाब - हुकम-बुट्टा

Fabric Description:

  • Kiṃkhāba silk fabric (reśamī vastra) in which large flower-vine leaf motifs (baḍe phūla-vela pattiyõ buṭṭe) are woven with zari.
  • Kiṃkhāba = Royal, heavy, and luxurious silk brocade
    • Base/warp (ādhāra): pure silk (śuddha reśama).
    • Weft (bānā): zari threads (gold/silver metallic threads).
    • Weaving (bunāī) - Brocade weaving technique.
  • Hukama buṭṭī - This is a royal brocade fabric type of Banarasi (Vārāṇasī) tradition, which is famous for its zari weaving (zarī bunāī), large flower-vine leaf motifs (baḍe phūla-vela pattiyõ buṭṭe jaise buṭṭe), and heavy kiṃkhāba structure (bhārī kiṃkhāba saṃracanā).

Usage in Sevā:

  • Garments (vastra) and pichhavāī in winter (śīta-kāla) festivals (utsava)

19. Sāṭina Fabric

साटिन वस्त्र

Fabric Description:

  • Dense, smooth, and shimmering cloth made from silk warp (reśamī tānā) + cotton weft (sūtī bānā).
  • Silk warp (reśama tānā) gives the upper surface its shimmering shine (jhilmila camaka).
  • Cotton weft (koṭana bānā) provides strength and durability to the cloth.
  • This very combination (saṃyojana) makes Banarasi satin special (viśeṣa) — soft, yet crisp and durable.

Usage in Sevā:

  • Winter season (śīta-kāla) garments (vastra) and pichhavāī
  • Winter season (śīta-kāla) ghaṭā garments (vastra) and pichhavāī
  • Vasanta Pañcamī and Dolotsava garments (vastra)

20. Zardozī Fabric

जरदोजी वस्त्र A
जरदोजी वस्त्र B
जरदोजी वस्त्र C

Fabric Description:

  • Metal embroidery (dhātu-dhāgõ kī kaḍhāī)
  • The word "Zardozī" is formed from two Persian words:
    • "Zara" = Gold
    • "Dozī" = Embroidery(kaḍhāī) or sewn work
  • "Zardozī" means — "embroidery(kaḍhāī) done with gold"
  • Indicates royal opulence (rājasī vaibhava sūcaka)

Usage in Sevā:

  • Śrī Mahāprabhujī festival (utsava), Rāmanavamī, Janmāṣṭamī pichhavāī and gādī-takiyā (cushion-pillow), morā-paṭṭā.
  • On other major festivals (anya baḍe utsava) (if not excessive hot climate).

21. Phārukhaśāhī Fabric

फारुखशाही वस्त्र

Fabric Description:

  • Zari fabric with motifs(buṭṭe).

Usage in Sevā:

  • Garments (vastra) and decorations (sāja) on the day of Diwali.
  • Optional (aicchika) during the days of Diwali.

22. Lismā Zarī Fabric

लिस्मा जरी वस्त्र

Fabric Description:

  • Zari work (zarī kārya) is fine (bārīka), done in linear (rekhātmaka) zigzag (diagonal - tirachhe) manner.

Usage in Sevā:

  • Garments (vastra) and decorations (sāja) from Daśerā or Śārada to winter season (śīta-kāla)
  • Dvitīyā Pāṭa and for 9 days (9 dina) (if not hot climate)

23. Salīdāra Zarī

सलीदार जरी

Fabric Description:

  • Zari weaving (zarī-bunāī) is done with lines or strips (rekhā/saliyā) (stripes/ribs).

Usage in Sevā:

  • Garments (vastra) and decorations (sāja) from Daśerā or Śārada to winter season (śīta-kāla)
  • Dvitīyā Pāṭa and for 9 days (9 dina) (if not hot climate).

24. Dhorā Fabric

धोरा वस्त्र A
धोरा वस्त्र B

Fabric Description:

  • Sāṭina, silk, ḍoriyā, or muslin cloth where lines (rekhā), strips (paṭṭī), or stripes (dhārā) are made with goṭā-paṭṭī (lace trim).
  • Parallel lines are drawn. Meeting of lines creates a mesh grid (jālīdāra grid pattern).
  • Sometimes small motifs (chhoṭe-chhoṭe buṭṭe) are also embroidered (kaḍhāī) in these boxes.

Usage in Sevā:

  • Dāna Ekādaśī: Black dhora garments (śyāma dhorā vastra) and pichhavāī
  • Pavitrā: White with gold dhora on top
  • Rainy season (varṣā-kāla): Decorations (sāja)

25. Misarjana

मिसर्जन

Fabric Description:

  • Base fabric made on smooth satin surface, on which embroidery(kaḍhāī) work has been done.

Usage in Sevā:

  • Winter season (śīta-kāla) pichhavāī

26. Motīkāma (Ṭakamā)

मोतीकाम (टकमा)

Fabric Description:

  • Such fabric on which pearls have been decorated with needle and thread.

Usage in Sevā:

  • Optional garments (aicchika vastra)

27. Kasīdā

कसीदा A
कसीदा B

Fabric Description:

  • "Kaśīdā (Kasida)" is the traditional name of Kashmiri embroidery (kaśmīrī kaḍhāī), which came to Kashmir (kaśmīra) with the Persians.
  • Persian influence is clearly visible in its motifs (rūpāṅkana) and style (śailī).

Usage in Sevā:

  • Optional garments (aicchika vastra)
  • Candā pichhavāī on Dūja (in Śrīnāthajī)

28. Citrāma

चितराम A
चितराम B

Fabric Description:

  • Such fabric (aisā vastra) on which hand-painting (hasta-citrana) has been done

Usage in Sevā:

  • Only pichhavāī and morā-paṭṭā
  • (Dāna, Rāsa, Indra-māna-bhaṅga)
  • Optional (aicchika)

29. Makhamala (Velvet)

मखमल

Fabric Description:

  • Velvet - made with pile (sāntala) or dense weaving

Usage in Sevā:

  • Only pichhavāī, decorations (sāja), and gādī-takiyā (cushion-pillow)
  • Hiṇḍolā or optional (aicchika) (when it is not summer - grīṣma na ho taba)
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